Using Canon lenses on Sony A7.

My work as a photographer has always been connected with Canon: Canon glasses, Canon lenses.
I found heaven with four different lenses aftr many years, testing almost all the line and trying to not invest too much on some fantastic pieces of glasses (for my experience and my purposes, excluded 300,500 and 600), 17TS and 200 f2 are THE BEST of THE BEST.
But we know, budget is… budget!

35 1.4L

100 f2

200 2.8L

and the MIGHTY 24 70 2.8II

One day I tested the first A7 iii, the first interesting Sony after a while; that camera had all I needed: IBIS, EYE AF, TILTED screen, and a big sister who managed Iso a lot better than 5d iv and 5ds, the Canon cameras I use to have at the time.
But, having my favorite lenses with a different technology, what about jumping to the Sony lens market?
Ok.. the 35 could be easily swapped with a Leica glass (at the end was the incredible Nokton 40 1.2) , but .. WHAT about the investment to do to change my 24 70, my 200 and my BELOVED 100f2?
Sigma comes to help with MC11 adapter, Metabones as well and I was lucky to test the first with a SIGMA 50 art I had in my bag.
Just a test without setting a single menu voice.. A7iii, 50art and mc11 inside the crowded Parkcameras shop in London; I was IMPRESSED.
Not a single out of focus image: some burst following the subject at 10fps… PERFECT in AFC.. A DREAM.

After two weeks I had a Sony in my bag , the A7riii and my Canon 5ds disappeared!

What about the AF  with the Canon glasses?
Let’s make it short… wasn’t easy. I had to rethink about the shooting process… the ML AF is different, is not dirty and ultra fast as we remember with PRO DSLR. There when you push the AF-ON you expect with a good light a super silent focus, almost aggressive and sudden and perfect if the lens and the body are well calibrated.
Also when you shoot moving subjects in AFC (Servo) you expect a continuous soft change keeping the AF ON pushed.
With Sony is different, whatever glasses you are using; using the point or the flexible spot you work with less strong torque when you focus but in servo, with good light, you can forget to lose your subject once you start pushing the button. In portraiture with eyeaf is even dramatic the difference with long or superfast glasses being able to nail the focus at 1.4 in any part of the frame.
This happens with any lens until you reach at 100mm, or with good light. With 200 2.8 and the 50 1.8stm was different and not so perfect as said above.

This happened until the last firmware of the Sony camera and the MC11 adapter.
After that I was able to do, even with the slow and always inaccurate 50 stm something like this at 1.8!:

Nothing to be super happy about, with Sony lenses, is normal even at 20fps.

Here with 24/70 at 2.8 , 70mm, 100%check of focus

The latest 2 in perfect nailed focus. Not impressive but good enough!
I was able to do nothing less than before with the 5ds, adding a stabilizer, a new without AA sensor with tilted screen and the eye af.
That was the PRIZE, having a lens like the 200L stabilized and not anymore connected with 1/640 for model shootings to avoid any micro vibration.

Or having the IBIS with THAT lens, the 24 70 2.8II, the MIGHTY lens I calibrated three times on Fixation UK in order to have the advertised quality expected by this numbers on DXO compared with native SONY GM:

Check out this two full size samples:

The first and second with the 200, the third with 100 at f2 and the latest with 24-70; this is the hardest test, scenery with vegetation and atmospherical haze with a sharpness close to a prime for the zoom and very high for the tele.
Perhaps for many will be even too much sharpened but going to print and not just checking 42mpx images on 100% on the monitor, this is just a first step; you can see the micro-contrast and the rendition of the details.

ANd the AF?
GREAT, weddings , reportages and portrait session with 90..95% of the pics in focus.
NO, I will not use this combination for sport, I want the best? I will use the best.. or native lenses for Sony or native bodies fo my lenses (NOT CANON R, just EF BODIES)

SO, what setting I suggest to be able to use these glasses on daily working glasses?




-use continuous AF
-AF SYSTEM PDetection
-AF with SHUTTER OFF (use the af on to keep focusing, not the trigger)
-remember the sony PD af use VERTICAL LINES… keep in focus when needed a vertical line, not a horizontal.
-enable a custom key to trigger the LIVE VIEW PREVIEW : with low light the lens focus wide open if you disable it.
BURST MAX 3FPS with Canon on MC11.
-try to test the combination of af-on and eye focusing (I use AEL for eye focus) and REMEMBER on this setting, AF ON works with the area selected, EYE AF when finding a face or an eye outside the selected area… TEST test and TEST!

I hope this would be helpul for anyone looking on advices on his CANON and SONY combination with SIGMA MC11 adapter.